Day 8 - Nasbinals → Sainte-Énimie

Today, we officially said goodbye to the higher plateau, where we’d been thoroughly enjoying the cooler temperatures and the charm of the rural communities. These past two evenings were an absolute treat—I was able to sleep with my windows wide open, waking up to a gorgeous view looking east as the sun rose.

As you can see in the ride map below, our day began with a gradual climb of just over 10 miles up to the Col de Bonnecombe. The total ascent today was clocking in at 2,413 feet of elevation gain, it was the shortest climb of the trip so far. A total walk in the park!. 

    

Zooming into the Valley

Our lunch picnic was waiting for us about 30 miles into the ride. After a brief stop to refuel, the remaining 10 miles or so passed in a flash as we zoomed down into the historic town of Sainte-Énimie. The road leading into town winds through a stunning, deep valley carved out by the river, which you can see in the photo below.

We rolled in close to noon, giving us a bit of time to kill while waiting for our luggage to arrive. Now that we are off the plateau, the heat is definitely making itself known—by late afternoon, it was hovering close to a scorching 100°F.

Luckily, we found ourselves in the perfect spot. Right across the street was a cafe where we could indulge in our favorite afternoon tradition: ice cream. The photo below captures Mike, from Thousand Oaks, CA, jealousy eyeing my scoop after already polishing off his own!

Looking Ahead

Tomorrow’s ride looks fairly short on paper—about 42 miles. The first 25 miles promise to be flat before we hit the only significant climb of the day.

Given that the weather forecast is calling for 90-degree-plus temperatures for the next several days, I expect we'll want to get a very early start to beat the heat.

Today's Photos

Happy Biking,

Brian

Day 7 Loop from Nasbinals

What an unexpected view! Shortly after waking this morning, I glanced out my hotel window and saw this incredible scene unfolding below. The glow of the impending sunrise line the horizon, and I watched as the sun slowly broke through. Using my phone, I captured a series of photos over a few minutes—the resulting animation is below. It was a beautiful way to start the day.

Today’s ride was a loop starting and ending right here in Nasbinals. Our group was small today. Three of us, Chris, Brent and myself. We kicked things off with a small climb, which rewarded us with a grand, 25-mile descent into the town of Espalion, before tackling a grueling 6-mile climb to get back to base.

Just like yesterday, we were fortunate to start in cool temperatures—somewhere in the low 60s. As we rolled out of Nasbinals, we faced a gentle 5-mile warmup with a gradual 3% grade. In the crisp morning air, we passed cattle grazing on either side of the road. Each herd was watched over intently by a massive bulls. When we stopped to snap a few photos, the bulls made it clear they weren't thrilled with our presence, letting out loud snorts to warn us not to get any closer!

Cresting that first climb, the world just dropped away. Down, down we rolled, flying faster and faster over perfectly smooth pavement. With barely any traffic, we had the road entirely to ourselves to just lean into the speed. It reminded me of a favorite one-mile descent on our Tuesday morning ride back home—except this one just kept going.

Needing a quick coffee break, we pulled into Laguiole (famous for its handcrafted knives) and found a café right on our path. We knocked back a round of cappuccinos and rolled out, entirely unprepared for what came next. As it turned out, we were only a third of the way down. The real downhill playground was just getting started!

When we hit the town of Espalion, our downhill fun was officially tapped out. It was incredible while it lasted, but now it was time to pay the toll: six miles of climbing. At times, those six miles felt double that length, but there was nothing to do but put our heads down and pedal.

Brent and Chris are both mountain goats compared to me, but five miles into the suffer-fest, I finally reconnected with them at our lunch oasis. As always, the fresh local food was the perfect mid-ride reset. The midday heat was starting to turn up, giving us the perfect excuse to push through the final stretch—there was ice cream waiting for us back in town, after all.

The summit finally arrived just four miles out of town. What a day! Between the endless downhills and that beast of a return climb, it was an absolute blast, and the day’s reward was right there waiting for us. We pulled into town and immediately tracked down some cool, refreshing sorbet—easily the best way to cap off the ride. From there, it was back to the hotel for quick showers and to get this blog typed up. We’re heading out for dinner at 7:00 PM before crashing early. Word on the street is that tomorrow is a lighter recovery ride, but we're already making plans for an early rollout!

Day 6 Murat → Nasbinals

I woke at midnight to the rumble of thunder and the flash of lightning outside my window. The storm had been predicted, but it brought a very welcome silver lining: a cool front sweeping through the region.

Starting at 3,000 feet, today’s route took us through a series of climbs and descents, eventually capping out near 4,000 feet. Between the higher elevation and the crisp post-storm air, it turned out to be some of the best cycling of the entire tour so far.

Rolling out of Murat, we were immediately greeted by a 5.2-mile climb gaining over 1,600 feet, with grades pitching up to 9%. But with temperatures hovering comfortably in the low 60s, it felt like a walk in the park compared to day one, where we tackled even steeper gradients in near-100°F heat. I won't say that the first climb was an absolute joy, but with the cool breeze on our backs, it was far from unbearable.

 

We were greeted at the top of the first climb with snacks and water before we made a huge descent, close to 2.5 miles. The sun was still fairly low on the horizon casting shadows on the road, that at times, made it difficult to locate any road defects as we blasted down. Fortunately we all made it safety were a coffee stop awaited us.

Some of the best coffee on the road comes from local Tabac bars, which are usually bustling with locals. We’ve turned quick pit stops into an art form—popping in, knocking back a quick espresso, and getting right back in the saddle.

The second major descent hit just before the 20-mile mark, and it was pure bliss. Over nearly six miles, we dropped more than 1,200 feet along a pristine, shadow-free stretch of asphalt with wide, sweeping curves. Jan took the lead, and it was a blast carving through the turns behind him, mimicking his line as he leaned the bike right, left, and right again, flowing perfectly with the rhythm of the road.

Today, our tour guide, Damien, picked a wonderful shaded location next to a bridge to set up the lunch picnic. As always the food was fresh and delicious. Just what was needed to finish the ride. 

Rolling into town, I made a pit stop at tonight’s dinner spot, only to find the rest of the group already mid-toast. A few drinks were hoisted to celebrate another fantastic day in the saddle, the perfect prelude to a cold drink, a hot shower, and a good night's rest.

Today's Photos

Happy Biking,

Brian

Day 4 - Lac Chambon → Murat

Weather or Not

The group is on the move today, leaving lovely Lac Chambon behind and heading toward Murat—a 57-mile trek packed with 5,228 feet of climbing.

Just as I was finishing packing my gear, a sharp crack of thunder echoed overhead, followed by an immediate downpour. The rain came down in buckets, but luckily, it passed in about 15 minutes—leaving behind air that felt drastically cooler than it had just moments before.

I pulled up the Epic Ride Weather app to see what we were in for. As you can see in the upper right quadrant of the image below, the forecast was calling for scattered showers throughout the day.

Still, with temperatures expected to hover between the upper 60s and low 80s, I decided against a jacket. At those temps, rain might make you wet, but it rarely makes you cold. So I ditched the outer layer, grabbed some breakfast at the restaurant, loaded my bags into the van, and rolled out.

Today’s route was tweaked based on what we learned on Day 3. The goal was simple: stay as high up as possible to avoid the sweltering heat of the lowlands. It meant a slightly longer ride with a bit more elevation gain, but the tradeoff was more than worth it.

As you can see on the map below, we kicked things off with a solid 6-mile climb to grab some early elevation and cooler air. Rolling up those hills instantly brought back memories of riding through the lush, sweeping landscapes of Brittany a couple of years ago.

Then, right on cue at 10:00 AM, the forecast delivered. A full-blown storm rolled directly overhead—lightning, thunder, hail, and torrential downpours. We scrambled for cover under a stand of trees just off the road as rivers of water carved down the pavement, getting completely soaked in the process.

But just like that, within 20 minutes, the storm moved on. The temp mercifully dropped to a crisp 67°F—absolute perfection for riding. Half an hour later, our gear was completely dry, and the sky had cleared into a brilliant blue dotted with classic "Simpsons" clouds. It turned out to be an incredible day on the bike.

As you can see from the ride profile above, the entire route was a constant game of up-and-down—hardly a flat stretch in sight! But true to the plan, our revised route kept us out of the worst heat for most of the day.

We stopped for lunch at the 30-mile mark, right at the edge of the day's longest plateau. It was healthy, delicious, and gave us the exact fuel we needed for the final 30-mile push into Murat. Right on cue, the weather app called it again with one last shower. It wasn't nearly as intense as the morning's downpour—just a refreshing splash to cool us down for the finish.

All in all, a fantastic day in the saddle.

Today's Photos

Happy biking,

Brian

Day 3 Loop from Lac Chambon

Our start was a bit later than usual today. On previous mornings, breakfast was served at 6:30, putting us on the road by 7:30. Today, however, we didn't roll out until 8:30—though we were greeted by a pleasant mid-70s temperature.

The first 10 miles (of a 56-mile day) were a glorious, continuous descent. It was pure fun, but every cyclist knows the golden rule: you will eventually pay for every downhill with an uphill later in the ride.

In our case, the payback wasn't delayed for long. The initial descent emptied right into a steep ramp, with pitch occasionally hitting a brutal 18% grade. A larger, sustained climb immediately followed, and by then, the heat was really turning up into the mid-80s.

It was around this point that I started wondering if there’s a mathematical formula to quantify a ride’s difficulty—factoring in distance, elevation gain, temperature, and maybe a few other suffering parameters thrown in for good measure.

The reason for my delusional mid-ride math? If I had to rate today on a scale of 0 to 10, it was easily an 11. Post-lunch, I found myself grinding up a 14% grade in 101°F heat. Extreme heat turns every effort into an ordeal. Where a climb in moderate 70-degree weather is actually fun, the exact same hill in the upper 90s is downright soul-crushing.

And that pretty much sums up today. We came to ride, and ride we did.

Despite the brutal temperatures and relentless climbing, I couldn't help but be captivated by the endless fields of sunflowers. We certainly have similar fields back home in the US, but there's something magical about touring Europe and taking in the view of these "happy flowers" standing tall and tracking the sun throughout the day. In the middle of a tough ride, the sight of them never fails to make me smile.

Today's photos

Happy Biking,

Brian

Day 2 - Clermont-Ferrand → Lac Chambon

Before the ride even begins, one lesson of travel always applies: stay flexible.

When you travel, flexibility is essential.

For this trip, I'm riding a rental bike, and it's an impressive machine. It features electronic shifting, hydraulic disc brakes, and, most importantly, fits me well. To make it feel even more like my own, I brought along my preferred saddle and pedals. After a few minor adjustments to the seat position, it fit me like a glove.

Many thanks to LaRébenne, our tour operator, for providing such outstanding equipment. If you're interested in cycling or hiking tours, I highly recommend checking out this personable, human-sized company.

Now for the flexibility part of today's story.

As we began our first climb this morning, I discovered that the front chainrings wouldn't shift. That instantly turned my beautiful 24-speed bike into a 12-speed. Worse yet, if the problem had been the battery powering the electronic shifting system, there was a chance I could end up stuck in a single gear—not exactly what you want with a day full of climbing ahead.

About eight miles into the ride (see the Ride with GPS map below), we caught up with our two support vehicles, which were parked along the roadside monitoring our progress as we tackled the first of several climbs. I flagged them down to see if we could figure out what was wrong.

The decision was made to load my bike onto one of the support vehicles and take it into town, where a mechanic at Decathlon—a massive sporting goods store—could have a look. Fortunately, the diagnosis was simple: a connector for the front shifter had worked itself loose. Once it was properly reconnected, everything functioned perfectly again.

As an added bonus, I was able to pick up a Garmin accessory that I had forgotten to pack. With the bike back in perfect working order, we returned to the route and managed to catch up with the rest of the group at the lunch stop.

The lunch stops are a high point of the ride. With just the right variety of food to keep you going when you are burning energy on the bike. Being Fance, you gotta have great bread and a selection of delicious cheese. I'm not a nutritionist, but it all seems pretty healthy to me

While having my bike worked on, I missed some of the more challenging parts of today's ride. but I wasn't going to miss the final 12 miles of the ride that included almost 8 miles of downhill into Lac Chambon. The climb to the top of the col provided many breathtaking views. During the final descent you passed through several microclimates and you could feel warm air flowing over you followed briefly by cool air, all while traveling at 35 to 40 MPH on skinny tires. It's all so much fun!!

Today's photos

Happy Biking,

Brian

Day 1 - Loop Ride - Clermont-Ferrand

 France—and much of Europe—has been locked in a dramatic heat wave, with temperatures hovering around 100°F (38°C). We came here to ride, and ride we will. Our strategy is simple: get on the road early while the temperatures are still in the 70s, then put as many miles behind us as possible before the afternoon heat arrives.

Breakfast is served at 6:30 a.m., with the ride rolling out at 7:30. That means a 6:00 a.m. wake-up call to shower, shave, brush your teeth, and pull on your cycling gear before heading downstairs for the breakfast buffet. After eating, it's back up to the third floor for the final packing and preparations, then down to the bikes for a few last-minute adjustments before our 7:30 departure.

Does that sound like a relaxing vacation? Maybe not—but once you're out on the road, it's an absolute blast.

The days ahead promise to be long, with plenty of climbing. I shared the ride schedule with my local cycling club, and when everyone noticed the daily elevation gains were listed in meters—not feet—they decided this trip looked like far too much work. Maybe they're right, but here I am.

Today's ride covered 53 miles with 4,738 feet of climbing—a fitting introduction to what lies ahead. The morning started out cool, but by about 8:30 you could already feel the temperature beginning to climb. Around 10:00 a.m., we found a café that was open, and our group of about 15 riders quickly filled every available outdoor seat. Orders were taken, food and drinks arrived promptly, and before long we were back on the road. We didn't want to linger, knowing the day's heat was rapidly approaching.

Lunch was served beside one of the area's few lakes, with plenty of fresh and healthy options waiting for us. As we packed up to leave, another group of riders was just arriving.

With lunch behind us, we were on the home stretch. One more substantial climb remained, followed by a long, rewarding descent all the way back into town. But just as we reached the top of that final climb, Jan's bike let out a terrible noise and shuddered to a stop. His rear wheel had locked up, and the derailleur had become tangled in the chain and rear spokes.

Somehow, the derailleur had failed. We called the support van, which picked up Jan and his bike. His ride was over for the day. Tomorrow, the bike will be taken to a local shop to see if it can be repaired and ready for the rest of the tour.

The final descent was a wonderful way to end the day. We arrived back at the hotel hot, thirsty, and more than ready for a shower, but another memorable ride was in the books.

We'll see what tomorrow brings.

Today's Photos

Happy Biking,

Brian

Traveling - It's a long way from Los Angeles to Clermont-Ferand

I rarely write about the travel days on these cycling tours, but as my plane queued up on the LAX taxiway, curiosity got the better of me—I hit "start" on my phone's stopwatch.

Ten hours, a movie, a quick meal, and a few catnaps later, we landed at Charles de Gaulle. Bag in hand, I boarded a southbound train to Lyon to connect with our tour shuttle.

Of course, in true French fashion, the transit workers were on strike, leaving the airport connector tram grounded. The tour shuttle stepped up, rescuing me directly at the train station and picking up two fellow riders, Mark and Jerry, before heading west to Clermont-Ferrand.

When we finally rolled up to the hotel, I checked my timer: just shy of 20 hours straight from LAX takeoff to hotel check-in.

Exhausted, I barely made it through dinner before collapsing into a solid eight-hour sleep. I woke up at 6:00 AM hungry and ready to ride—more on that in the next entry!

Happy Biking,

Brian

Tour Overview

The crossing of the Massif Central by road bike starts in Clermont-Ferrand and pass over the Auvergne volcanoes to arrive at the sea, in the pretty town of Sète, nicknamed “Venice of the Languedoc”. 

Cross the ‘vieux massif’ and discover, with each turn of the wheel, a variety of impressive landscapes; 

• The Chain of Puys
• Mont Dore, Causse Méjean (a vast limestone plateau)
• the Plateaus of Aubrac
• the Cirque de Navacelles

These varied and peaceful mid-height mountains are perfect for road cycling. Climb the famous ‘cols’ (mountain passes) of the Tour de France 2020: Col de Ceyssat, Col de Guéry, Col de Néronne or the Pas de Peyrol (the highest paved mountain pass of the Massif), or even the famous Mont Aigoual ! Last but not least, the local gastronomy is not to be missed. You will also stop off in one of the officially most beautiful villages in France: Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert.

This tour requires a lot of climbing the following overview details the daily options. The day with the most climbing is day 5 with 8,858 ft. of climbing. It's going to be a long day. Wish me strength to complete the climbs!! Even he "easy" days will be more challenging than the hardest days in Los Angeles.

Looking at the extended weather report, it looks like we'll be catching the last 4 days of the European heat wave. 102 degrees F is hot no matter where you come from. I suppose we'll be drinking lots of water on this trip.  

Click here to view the most recent weather forecast

Overview

The Great Crossing of the Massif Central by road bike starts in Clermont-Ferrand, passes through the volcanoes of Auvergne, and ends at the Mediterranean Sea in Sète, “the Venice of Languedoc.”

Along the way, we'll experience diverse landscapes including:

• Chaîne des Puys
• Mont Dore
• Causse Méjean
• Aubrac plateaus
• Cirque de Navacelles

We'll ride quiet roads, climb famous Tour de France passes such as:

• Col de Ceyssat
• Col de Guéry
• Col de Néronne
• Pas de Peyrol (highest road pass in the massif)
• Mont Aigoual

You’ll also visit one of the most beautiful villages in France:

• Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert

Highlights

• Tailor-made program for your group
• Multiple difficulty options per stage
• Varied landscapes: volcanoes, forests, gorges, plateaus
• Rich regional cuisine
• Finish at the Mediterranean Sea

Detailed Itinerary

Day 1 – Saturday, July 11, 2026

Clermont-Ferrand

• Arrival and hotel check-in
• Bike pickup
• Dinner

Day 2 – Sunday, July 12

Loop from Clermont-Ferrand

• Chaîne des Puys (UNESCO)
• Volvic waters
• Gour de Tazenat

Options:

• V1: 80 km / 1500 m / 4,921 ft. ascent
• V2: 100 km / 1700 m / 5,577 ft. ascent

Day 3 – Monday, July 13

Clermont-Ferrand → Lac Chambon

• Puy-de-Dôme

Options:

• V1: 75 km / 1700 m / 5,577 ft. ascent
• V2: 115 km / 2550 m / 8,366 ft. ascent
• V3: 125 km / 2600 m / 8,530 ft ascent

Day 4 – Tuesday, July 14

Loop from Lac Chambon

• Saint-Nectaire
• Cézallier plateau

Options:

• V2: 90 km / 1900 m / 6,233 ft.
• V3: 135 km / 2600 m / 8,530 ft.

Day 5 – Wednesday, July 15

Lac Chambon → Murat

• Super-Besse
• Puy Mary
• Cantal region

Options:

• V1: 80 km / 1200 m / 3,937 ft.
• V2: 120 km / 2250 m / 7,381 ft.
• V3: 140 km / 2700 m / 8,858 ft.

Day 6 – Thursday, July 16

Loop from Murat

• Grandval Lake
• Garabit Viaduct
• Saint-Flour

Options:

• V1: 70 km / 1050 m / 3,444 ft.
• V2: 100 km / 1850 m / 6,069 ft.

Day 7 – Friday, July 17

Murat → Nasbinals

• Col de Prat-de-Bouc
• Plomb du Cantal
• Truyère gorges

Options:

• V1: 75 km / 1450 m / 4757 ft.
• V2: 105 km / 2050 m / 6725 ft.
• V3: 125 km / 2250 m / 7381 ft.

Day 8 – Saturday, July 18

Loop from Nasbinals

• Laguiole
• Estaing
• Saint-Côme-d’Olt

Options:

• V1: 85 km / 1500 m / 4921 ft.
• V2: 100 km / 1800 m / 5905 ft.

Day 9 – Sunday, July 19

Nasbinals → Sainte-Énimie

• Aubrac plateau
• Sauveterre plateau

Options:

• V1: 70 km / 800 m / 2624 ft.
• V2: 95 km / 1250 m / 4101 ft.
• V3: 115 km / 1550 m / 5085 ft.

Day 10 – Monday, July 20

Sainte-Énimie → Meyrueis

• Tarn and Jonte gorges

Options:

• V1: 70 km / 1250 m / 4101 ft.
• V2: 100 km / 1900 m / 6233 ft.
• V3: 130 km / 2100 m / 6889 ft.

Day 11 – Tuesday, July 21

Meyrueis → Le Vigan

• Mont Aigoual
• Cévennes National Park

Options:

• V1: 100 km / 1600 m / 5249 ft.
• V2: 135 km / 2050 m / 6725 ft.
• V3: 155 km / 2600 m / 8530 ft.

Day 12 – Wednesday, July 22

Le Vigan → Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert

• Cirque de Navacelles
• Vis and Hérault gorges

Options:

• V2: 100 km / 1350 m / 4429 ft.
• V3: 145 km / 2300 m / 7546 ft.

Day 13 – Thursday, July 23

Loop from Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert

• Mont Saint-Baudille
• Salagou Lake

Options:

• V1: 75 km / 1000 m / 3280 ft.
• V2: 90 km / 1500 m / 4921 ft.

Day 14 – Friday, July 24

Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert → Sète

• Aumelas plateau
• Étang de Thau
• Mediterranean coast

Options:

• V1: 75 km / 500 m / 1640 ft.
• V2: 95 km / 850 m / 2788 ft.

Day 15 – Saturday, July 25

Sète

Total Distance

• V1: 1,045 km / 16,800 m / 55,118 ft. ascent
• V2: 1,345 km / 23,000 m / 75,459 ft.
• V3: 1,555 km / 26,400 m / 86,614 ft.